Рубрика: moda

Jordan Daniels is on the ferry when we speak, the tooting of tugboats and sound of rushing water punctuating our conversation. Doing an interview while in transit seems appropriate for the model, who has spent her life moving between continents. Born in South Africa, Daniels grew up in New Zealand, where she enrolled in college and took a retail job. It was “a normal life,” she recalls. Then she upended that normalcy, jettisoning her studies to head to L.A. in hopes of taking her modeling career to the next level. “I didn’t ask my parents for permission or anything—I just did it,” she says.

The risk paid off. After she notched an exclusive booking for Prada’s spring 2019 show, Daniels has since walked a marathon’s worth of runways, from Dior to Marc Jacobs to Thom Browne. All that travel helped spur an interest in international cuisine. “It was one of the ways that I would get to know a city,” she says. Her dream is to have her own Anthony Bourdain–style travel show someday, focused on food and culture.

In self-isolation, Daniels has been getting creative with remote shoots. “I’ve glued crystals on my teeth,” she says, and incorporated her dogs and cats into the background of her shots.

She’s been staying politically engaged, working with Starfish Greathearts Foundation, which supports children in HIV/AIDS-affected communities in South Africa, and she’s been active in the Black Lives Matter movement, helping to provide supplies to protesters. And she’s given thought to how the fashion industry can be more inclusive when it comes to Black models like herself. To Daniels, that means investing in their careers long-term. “At the end of the day, new faces are, unfortunately, disposable,” she says. “It’s all about longevity.”

Hair by Nicole Nelms; Makeup by Chao-Li for Chanel; Produced by Hillary Foxweldon.

This story appears in the September 2020 issue.

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Due to COVID-19, London Fashion Week is almost unrecognizable this year. Still, designers are proving that the show doesn’t stop and some have even surpassed all expectations. Molly Goddard, known for her cheeky take on taffeta princess gowns beloved by Rihanna, Zendaya, and Killing Eve fans alike, delivered a spring-summer collection worthy of a couch-sitting ovation. But our attention went beyond falling in love with her signature ballgowns. Alongside her socially-distanced presentation of voluminous dresses, neon checkerboard knits, and ruffled gingham, she premiered a collaboration we didn’t know we needed: Goddard is teaming up with UGG.

UGG isn’t new to the collab game. The brand most recently announced a buzz-worthy partnership with Telfar. Now its teaming up with Goddard for three new styles that marry the best of both houses while simultaneously speaking to our current cozy needs. Goddard took the Aussie shoe’s sheepskin and whipped them into whimsical, yet throughly modern styles. There’s the classic mini boot decorated with contrast florals, a shaggy slipper, and a platform mule we’re bound to see on all your favorite influencers.

Communicating via email, Goddard shared her personal history with the iconic boots, her inspiration for the collection, and what designing in lockdown looked like for her and her team.

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What is your first memory of UGG boots?

I desperately wanted a pair of tall black ones when I was a teenager to wear with the velour Juicy Couture that I wanted too.

What elements from your ready to wear collections did you want to bring to this collaboration?

I love shoes to either complement or contrast with collections. This season it was great to work with UGG and with their range of materials and play with texture and colour which is so key to all my collections.

With fashion week completely dismantled, what is one thing about a traditional fashion show you won’t miss?

I love all elements of a show. After six months of hard work, for me, it’s the cathartic release me and my team all need — I think shows are the best way of presenting a collection and communicating what you are about each season. The opportunity to work with professionals in all elements at the top of their game, in hair and makeup, production, makers and craftspeople, all working towards putting on a show. It’s exhausting and in some ways frivolous but so much fun.

What has been the most challenging thing about designing during this time?

I didn’t enjoy lockdown, working at home can be pretty uninspiring. I like to be around people, to hear what they have been doing, see what they are wearing and share opinions. I am so happy to be back in the studio, it has its challenges working at a distance and with PPE on but it’s so much better than staring at a screen.

The UGG x Molly Goddard collaboration drops in March 2021. We rounded up equally great styles to tide you over until then.

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From hot takes on the buzziest fashion shows and the latest happenings in the industry to Outfit of the Day pictures, Antoine Gregory’s Twitter account @bibbygregory has always served as a window into his mind. And at its forefront? Black designers—always.

As one of the few Black students in his design class at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Gregory has long been keenly aware of the need for more Black faces in fashion. In 2016, he created a Twitter thread titled “Black Designers You Should Know” listing the names and websites of veteran and budding Black designers, including Carly Cushnie, James Phlemuns, LaQuan Smith, Hanifa, Kerby Jean-Raymond and more. Little did he know the thread would become the cornerstone of the platform he’d launch four years later.

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Black Fashion Fair arrived this week, not a moment too soon. At a time when the heaviness of the current climate and social unrest has propelled Black designers to the forefront of fashion’s consciousness, Black Fashion Fair presents not only a mission but a plan of action to keep Black talent at the center of the conversation. The platform is “a conceptual trade, educational, and cultural experience aimed toward the discovery and furtherance of Black designers,” the site reads. The crème de la crème of BFF is its A-Z directory that organizes creatives by their real name instead of the brand.

“It is also a tool to reach the designer brands through commerce. Buying Black is easy, but we need support and community around Black designers that help sustain their businesses long-term. I want to see Black designers become heritage brands,” he told Essence.

One way Gregory hopes to keep designers in conversations is through BFF’s Fashion Stories, an ongoing series highlighting Black designers and the narratives behind their brands. “As Black Fashion Fair continues to advocate for greater access and visibility, these stories will document and preserve Black fashion and style as designers continue to gain equity in an industry that has not mirrored them. These stories are about more than fashion. These stories are a historical and cultural reference. They are the representation of a people who are often forgotten and whose contributions have largely been ignored,” BFF wrote on the site. In tandem with BFF’s debut, the platform released its inaugural Fashion Story spotlighting Pyer Moss, shot by Ahmad Barber and Donté Maurice of AB+DM.

Today, BFF launches another sector of its multi-pronged plan, a digital trade show showcasing pieces from 21 designers, from Fe Noel to Tia Adeola to Phlemuns. Each brand participating in the fair is asked to commit 15 percent of proceeds to resources that support the next generation of designers.

Shop some of our favorite picks below.

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It wasn’t supposed to be this way.

In another dimension—the one where science isn’t “an opinion,” where health is a human right, where Quibi is the name of a celebrity baby instead of, like, whatever it is—Fashion Week would be moving right along. There would be triumphs and trends, breakout faces wearing sponsored mascara, and the occasional “that didn’t need to be a show” sigh from weary editors on a micro-drip of cold brew and chunky accessories. In other words, the jagged bliss of our jobs.

Instead, here we are in a more twisted timeline, exclaiming “it’s so good to see you!” even though half our faces are covered. And that’s where Christian Siriano pops into view. (For real though—at the show he seemed to appear magically from behind a tree in his backyard, yelling “it’s so good to see you!” while wearing a mask—one of the 750k he’s created for frontline workers since the start of the pandemic.)

Along with helping solve this dimension’s PPE shortage and making TikTok videos with Sarah Jessica Parker, the 34-year-old designer has been doing exactly what the rest of us have: binging old movies in his PJs. “Comfort viewing is a very real thing,” he says, “and for me, that’s Don’t Tell Mom the Babysitter’s Dead.” The 1991 comedy stars Christina Applegate as a high school senior pretending to be a fashion executive. Its glorious finale has a bunch of giddy teens wearing Balmain-meets-Burger-King versions of fast food uniforms on a catwalk made from pool floats. And for many current millennials—Siriano included—“it was the first time I ever saw a runway show, or even realized that fashion could be a job.”

Or in the case of Siriano’s latest collection, a great job. Along with expected (and exquisite) confections like lipstick-red poufs and pink princess skirts, there were flare-kick pants and cropped plaid blazers that could perk up a dreaded Zoom meeting pretty fast. See also: a black lace corset with a thighbone-bearing skirt for maximum Hailey Baldwin vibes (and a brief pang of party withdrawal for the Ghosts of Wang Fests Past). Of course there were Emmy Award options because the show is still happening (sort of, somehow…) on Sunday, along with bombshells like Lauren Chan and Sabrina Karlsson, who was dressed like a Connecticut Persephone in yellow chiffon and sooooo many daisies. (An ode to Drew Barrymore, who filmed a segment with Siriano for her new talk show?)

Then there was Coco Rocha, who closed the show in a scarlet body-con gown while pregnant with her third child. (Mazel Tov, Coco!) “It’s the only show she’ll get to do this season with the baby in her belly,” sighed Siriano. “So we wanted to make it special.” So did Rocha—she stepped into his swimming pool for the grand finale, swam the backstroke… and then had to be pulled out by the atelier assistants, because have you ever gotten a multi-layered couture gown sopping wet? Even the hardcore CrossFit attendees among us could never. And though the move was very reminiscent of Shelley Long’s pool dive in Troop Beverly Hills (another favorite of the designer), Siriano swears it wasn’t choreographed. “To be honest, we told her to be free—Coco is such a muse, and I trust her completely in my clothes—but I had no idea what she was going to do!” said the designer after the show. “It certainly wasn’t planned—but what has been this year?”

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In that other timeline, Rocha would have somehow emerged from the pool like an X-Men goddess, posed while sopping wet, and been air-lifted by a helicopter sponsored by an energy drink. In this one, Christian Siriano took his bow while laughing, surrounded by women of all body types and skin tones, as an audience of die-hard fashion folk clapped, ‘grammed, and smiled broadly, because it was a beautiful day and there were beautiful things in it—even if those things needed help to get out of a saltwater swimming pool before they could keep going.

So wait, maybe it was supposed to be this way? Anyhow, onwards.

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