Месяц: Сентябрь 2020

Style Points is a new weekly column about how fashion intersects with the wider world.

All designers have an obsession; Pierre Cardin’s is the circle. From the moon to a spacesuit’s globular helmet, the shape fascinates him. You can see it in his work, namely the circular dresses he’s designed, and even in his home: one of his residences, the Palais Bulles outside Cannes, is studded with literal bubbles. The appeal of the circle, the 98-year-old designer says in the new documentary House of Cardin, is that it’s «infinite.» «A square, a rectangle, a triangle has an end,» he says. «But a circle is a continuation.»

This fixation on infinity dominated some of Cardin’s most famous ’60’s designs. He was so besotted with the space program that he even made a trip to NASA, where he became the first civilian to don one of their spacesuits. While his futuristic designs didn’t go on to become everyday wear, they certainly came to influence the work of experimental designers long after him. Would we have Lady Gaga’s plastic VMA’s bubble shield, if not for Cardin’s influence?

The documentary, directed by P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes, includes aficionados like Naomi Campbell (wearing a Mod-chic vintage Cardin look) and Jean-Paul Gaultier singing the designer’s praises. Cardin was already a disruptor back when Silicon Valley was just a valley. And at a time when we’re all now peering uncertainly through frosted glass at the future of fashion, the designer’s exuberant embrace of all things new feels like a template for future innovation.

Cardin, along with his contemporaries André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne, embodied a kind of techno-optimism that, while it feels very remote today, still feels tinged with excitement. He experimented with then-new synthetic materials like plastic and his own creation «Cardine.» He favored freeing silhouettes that stood away from the body. His experiments weren’t just aesthetic. He also did away with many of the traditional ways of thinking, like embracing ready-to-wear and the Youthquake as opposed to the then-dominant couture establishment.

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Cardin’s most on-target prediction was that licensing would be the future. He put his name on everything from mattresses and answering machines. The conventional wisdom held that doing this would dilute his fashion brand. Cardin responded, «Yes, maybe. But this is how I see the future.» The licensing business ended up being the smartest decision he ever made; it gave him the revenue to keep his business completely independent.

He was also ahead of his time in popularizing the idea of a «lifestyle brand,» designing his own furniture and rugs, and even a car, the Cardin Javelin. We’ve now seen designers from Giorgio Armani to Ralph Lauren branch into the food world, but Cardin was the one who helped make that kind of move seem commonplace. After being rejected from the Paris restaurant Maxim’s for wearing a turtleneck instead of a dress shirt and bow tie, the designer went on to enact the ultimate revenge: he bought the restaurant, and still owns it today.

He also embraced inclusivity long before that was a term, casting Black and Asian models in his shows at a time when very few designers did so. «He was extremely instrumental in being one of the designers to use models of diversity,» Campbell explains in the film. «So, for that, I thank him.» Jenny Shimizu talks about how important it was for her to see Asian models like Hiroko Matsumoto on his runway and how that informed her modeling career.

Right now, as we brace ourselves for a partly virtual fashion month and a sea of unknowns, designers are unsure whether to play it safe or invent new ways of doing things. Cardin would probably urge them to go for it. Try out that wild idea or that trippy virtual show. Put that crazy garment on the runway. See what happens!

As the composer Jean-Michel Jarre says of Cardin in the film, «Like all great futurists, [his] work will take on more and more meaning in the future.» Cardin wasn’t creating clothes for the present. He was creating them for the perfect future that existed only in his mind’s eye. And rather than wait for it to happen, he made it a reality.

House of Cardin is now in virtual theaters and will be available on demand beginning September 15.

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Long before Ally Maki appeared in movies and TV shows like Toy Story 4, Cloak & Dagger, and Wrecked, the Japanese American actress was hitting the club. And no, not the high heels, music-blaring, vodka cran kind of club, but actual extracurriculars. «When I was younger, I was totally the club girl, and not the club girl who’s going to the club, but the activities girl,» she tells ELLE.com over Zoom. «My mom put me in every after school activity: Brownies, Girl Scouts, baseball, drama, everything.»

As a fellow club girl and Asian American, I knew what it was like being thrown into activity after activity, hoping something would stick—and being disappointed when it didn’t. «In every club that was designed to be inclusive, I always felt excluded,» Maki explains. «Now as an adult, I look back and I get it. It was because there was no one there who looked like me. There was no one there who shared that depth of experience and identity.»

In 2018, Maki founded Asian American Girl Club, her answer to the exclusion she felt growing up and experiences even now, as an actress in Hollywood. The fashion and lifestyle brand aims to redefine the modern Asian American woman through normalization and unity. AAGC’s popular Instagram account showcases its vibrant members, proudly wearing the brand’s T-shirts. «I wanted to change the narrative of what a club should feel like, what a club can be for you, your self-worth, identity and confidence,» Maki adds.

Ahead, Maki talks AAGC, her special relationship with Olivia Munn, and why it’s important for Asian Americans to be allies to the Black community.

What prompted you to start Asian American Girl Club?

It was really after Crazy Rich Asians came out. That morning, I remember looking on Twitter and it was just this explosion of support and excitement around this movie that was the first all Asian American cast I’d seen in my lifetime. I had this glass-shattering moment of, if this is possible, what else is possible for us as a community? What I wanted to dive further into was Asian American women.

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How did your experiences as an actress help inform this project?

Well, I grew up in Kirkland, Washington, as the only Asian American within my town. I dreamed of being Tiffani Amber Thiessen, these California girls. And when I moved to LA to pursue acting, all of a sudden these boxes were put around me. «Oh no, you’re not that. You’re going to play the sidekick or the best friend or the girl who loves math or the over-sexualized ninja girl who does kung fu.»

With female friendship, especially among Asian American women, I felt like we were so separate from each other. When you’re in the industry and you’re all trying to fight for that one role, it does end up feeling like The Hunger Games. You start to look at your own community as your enemy, which is completely wrong. We’re actually going to be so much stronger if we unite and work together, collaborate, and share our thoughts and feelings.

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What’s it like seeing the community grow and be embraced by so many women?

It’s absolutely incredible. When we launched, I had no idea what it was going to be. I was with a couple of people and they were like, «Just release the logo, see what happens.» So at 10:30 at night one night, we dropped a logo, made an Instagram.

The next morning, our inbox, DMs, were flooded with girls from all over who were writing these college-style dissertations on identity and what this meant to them. They were like, «We don’t know what this is either, but we just are so happy that this exists.» From there, the shirts were really just this expression of friendship. «Hey, I see you. Here’s a shirt, let’s rock this together proudly.» I’ve been taking the first two years to really get to know the community, taking a very multi-generational approach.

Olivia Munn is a huge supporter of the brand. How did she become an ambassador?

She’s so proud of her Asian identity. We connected through our friend, Amanda Ngyuen. We were together helping support Rise, Amanda’s foundation for sexual assault victims. She was like, «Hey girl, do you want to go to lunch?» She literally hit me up in the DMs, and I love that because I always say, I go down in the DMs, but only with female friendships.

So we ended up going out to sushi and through that lunch, we were just like, «Oh my gosh, I totally see you.” And it was funny, she was like, «Wait, hold on. You founded Asian American Girl Club? I just put in an order last week.» And she showed me her receipt. She was already a fan of the brand and since then, she’s been an incredible supporter.

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Growing up, I never had anything like AAGC, where I could view myself in a really cool, contemporary way. How did you create that space?

A huge facet of our mission is normalization of the modern Asian American woman. A few years ago, I would search the #AsianAmerican hashtag, and it would be pictures that I didn’t feel fully expressed the plethora and incredibleness of Asian American women. So I wanted to be able to say, if you go on Instagram, we are flooding you with images of what we can be and how beautiful we are.

And that’s why we have the undefinable statement because you can’t define us. We are not in boxes. We can be anything that we want. You see Sandra Oh nominated for an Emmy, you see journalists, of course doctors, writers, authors, but really across the gamut, we’re killing it and we’ve been here. My family is four generations, so we’ve been here for so long.

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AAGC has been very outspoken about Asian Americans being good allies to the Black community. Why was it important to get that message out?

There’s so many instances in history where the Black community has shown up for the Asian American community. And I think we have this platform, we just need to tell people and encourage them to learn, because we’re not reading about it in our history books.

For me, it’s the biggest privilege to be able to share stories, especially the [story of] Japanese American people, but also to use my voice to become an ally for the Black Lives Matter movement and for the Black community.

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4-6 сентября в онлайн-формате пройдет новый выпуск Global Talents Digital. На международном событии 100 участников из 34 стран и территорий объединились, чтобы раскрыть для зрителей тему sustainability. Мероприятие проходит при поддержке и участии крупнейших некоммерческих организаций со всего мира: Fashion Revolution, Global Fashion Exchange (Великобритания); Фонд «Второе дыхание» (Россия); Redress Design Award (Гонконг, Китай); Impact Fashion Show, Remake, The Sustainable Angle (США); Fashion Takes Action (Канада); XSProject (Индонезия); Good On You (Австралия) и другие, которые активно развивают идеи устойчивого развития в области моды.

Крупнейшие региональные недели моды на трех континентах объединились для этого онлайн-события, посвященного этичной моде и устойчивому развитию текстильной индустрии. Национальная палата моды в сотрудничестве с Japan Fashion Week Organization, South African Fashion Week, Kampala Fashion Week, Lagos Fashion Week, São Paolo Fashion Week, Indonesian Fashion Designers Association, Fashion Design Council of India и другими представит 65 брендов из 23 стран, работающих в одном или нескольких направлениях, таких как upcycling, recycling, ethical fashion, slow fashion, zero waste и digital wear.

Прямую трансляцию Global Talents Digital покажут в крупнейшей социальной сети в России и странах СНГ ВКонтакте (https://vk.com/mbfwrussia), а также на 100 российских и зарубежных онлайн-платформах по всему миру. Tencent Video и Tencent Fashion станут эксклюзивными партнерами события в Китае.

Дизайнеры реальной и digital-одежды, секонд-хенды, художники, стартапы, НКО, AR, цифровые модели и десятки коллабораций. Зачем еще стоит виртуально посетить Global Talents Digital?

Не заскучать: дополненная реальность, Instagram-маски, see now buy now

Видеопрезентации sustainable-дизайнеров будут содержать элементы AR. В дополненной реальности зрители смогут узнать состав изделий, увидеть, как влияет мода на окружающий мир и природу, а также рассмотреть коллекции дизайнеров на цифровых аватарах. Cовершать онлайн-покупки sustainable-одежды можно будет прямо во время трансляций.

Участники Global Talents Digital в сотрудничестве с MOD – платформой цифровой одежды – создали слоганы, паттерны и различные изображения, которые можно перенести на свою одежду прямо из приложения, тем самым поддержав идею разумного потребления. Также, специально к мероприятию, участники Global Talents Digital создали маски для Instagram Stories: пользователи социальной сети смогут примерить сумку или необычный аксессуар, нанести макияж или добавить вдохновляющую цитату прямо к себе на одежду: «Reuse or refuse» предлагает XSProject, Global Fashion Exchange напоминает о «SWAPPERTUNITY», Fashion Takes Action выбирает «Progress over Perfection», Фонд «Второе дыхание» предпочитает «Wear slow» – маски будут доступны в специальном разделе официального Instagram-аккаунта @mbfwrussia.

День московских дизайнеров

4 сентября московские бренды представят sustainable-коллекции на Global Talents Digital. Международный экспертный совет выбрал 10 дизайнеров из Москвы для участия в событии. В программе Дня московских дизайнеров 3 прямые трансляции показов дизайнеров SL1P, RCP 4.5, SEMILETOVA и 7 видеопрезентаций брендов SERAYA, RigRaiser, ATUMATU, RADICAL CHIC, BLANC, KREMLYAKOVA, HOLY MHPI* by MOSCOW ART INDUSTRIAL INSTITUTE. Стилисты сети салонов MONE при поддержке бренда MONE PROFESSIONAL создадут трендовые образы моделей к live-stream-показам.

В состав международного экспертного совета вошли Ольга Михайловская, руководитель программы Национальной палаты моды Global Talents, обозреватель моды (Vogue Россия, Коммерсант), создатель Telegram-канала @frontfashion, основатель Front Fashion School, Россия; Сара Соццани-Майно, заместитель главного редактора итальянского Vogue, глава Vogue Talents (Италия), бренд-амбассадор Национальной палаты моды Италии, Италия; Данило Вентури, директор Polimoda, Италия; Кацума Мори, владелец магазина BUNKER TOKYO (среди российских брендов в нем представлены Спутник 1985, SVARKA, VOLCHOK и др.) и шоурума RIVERHEAD (представлены такие бренды, как Sowhat?, SOVETSKY1917, SSANAYA TRYAPKA) в квартале Харадзюку, Токио, Япония; Эдуардо Гарсия, основатель журнала F*cking Young, Испания; Андреа Селви, международный эксперт с двадцатилетним опытом в мужской моде, сейчас он руководит закупками мужской одежды по всему миру для концепт-стора Luisa via Roma во Флоренции, Италия; Роуз Лангенбейн, fashion-консультант брендов и онлайн-ритейлеров, Германия; Патрик Даффи, основатель Global Fashion Exchange, сооснователь the SwapChain и Circular Fashion Summit, Великобритания; Кэти Домини, сооснователь ведущей digital-платформы для начинающих дизайнеров и художников ARTSTHREAD, Великобритания. День московских дизайнеров пройдет при поддержке Департамента предпринимательства и инновационного развития города Москвы и Агентства креативных индустрий. К экспертному совету присоединится консультант по стратегическому развитию из Парижа, Эвелин Мора, основательница Helsinki Fashion Week и the DIGITAL VILLAGE io Metaverse, в качестве эксперта по устойчивому развитию. Она оценит участников Global Talents Digital в специальном обзоре после мероприятия.

Прямые трансляции показов без гостей пройдут на площадках дилерских центров Mercedes-Benz «Авилон Легенда» и «Панавто». Одним из ключевых аспектов экоустойчивой бизнес-стратегии Daimler AG является электрическая мобильность. В рамках стратегии Ambition 2039 Mercedes-Benz работает над тем, чтобы через 20 лет предложить новый парк легковых автомобилей с нулевым выбросом CO₂. Одним из важных аспектов экоустойчивой мобильности является прозрачность. Вот почему Mercedes-Benz AG является первым производителем автомобилей премиум-класса, чьи цели по защите климата были научно подтверждены в рамках инициативы SBTI. Это означает, что компания соответствует требованиям Парижского всемирного климатического соглашения.

Digital-галерея «Update ID Settings»

6 сентября на Global Talents Digital откроется виртуальная галерея «Update ID Settings». Известные и молодые художники покажут зрителям работы, вдохновленные темой sustainability: Эбен МакКриммон (Австралия); Кристина Уорнер (Великобритания); Пол Эстевес, Тимо Хельгерт (Германия); Ли Ирвин, aka Peak Emotions (Ирландия); Аннибаль Сиконолфи, aka Inward (Италия); Александр Забей Ворота (Катар); Карлос Алехандро Перез Руиз (Мексика); Ири Вата (Нидерланды); Александр Певчев (Россия); Алексей Северин (Россия / Италия); Джонатан Мюллер, aka JonMue-Collages (Швейцария) и Джон Нурландер (Швеция). Расписание работы digital-галереи будет размещено на официальном сайте события  https://globaltalents.digital/.

Воркшопы по созданию одежды, принтов и аксессуаров от дизайнеров со всего мира

Дизайнеры со всего мира проведут серию мастер-классов по созданию sustainable-изделий. Как сделать сумку из рубашки или принт на футболку? Как сделать топ из джинсовых шорт или колье-чокер своими руками? Украшение из кофейных капсул или мини-кардиган из шарфа; вторая жизнь старой рубашки; натуральное окрашивание растениями и цветами – все это и многое другое представлено в программе воркшопов Global Talents Digital. Полное расписание мастер-классов – на сайте события https://globaltalents.digital/.

Также среди виртуальных и реальных участников:

Российские: Authentic Linen Brand KOTOMÂ, brevno, СHUUDO_YUUDO, Cocoshnick Headdress, Ginger Ocean, MANIFEST, Mira Fedotova, PIJMAK, Polina Gorkovenko, POLYARUS, Recycle.Object, Ría Studio, The Empty Industry, Two eagles и секонд-хенды STROGO vintage, SVALKA.

Зарубежные: CHAIN & Zoe Dvir (Аргентина / Израиль); Juan de La Paz & Global Fashion Exchange (Боливия); GBGH by Jacqueline Barbosa (Бразилия); Fanfare Label, Krishma Sabbarwal (Великобритания); KOLO Berlin (Германия); ADI KARNI VAGT, ALON LIVNÉ — Else | Featuring Virtual Model Linda Knight Of ZOE01, VALENTINS (Израиль); NS GAIA, Shweta Chaklader (Индия); Aldrè Indrayana & Cota Cota Studio, AM by Anggiasari,  Emmy Thee & XSProject, Gregorius Vici, Rosie Rahmadi (Индонезия); 404 STUDIO, ALASKA, Olivia Barthe, Paula Ulargui (Испания); BAY (Казахстан); SOUND.ON & Leen Nizameddin (Канада / ОАЭ); ZUDI by Judy Tang (Китай); Angela Reyna (Мексика); Bola Yahaya, CHéCHI, Cute-saint, Redbutton (Нигерия); CHANDENIE, GARCIABELLO (Нидерланды); Graciela Huam (Нидерланды / Перу); ARTO (Перу); FNMeka, UNHUEMAN (США); Hilal Sevencan, Lila Ziyagil & Bensu Gök (Турция); NCYZIP (Украина); digital-модель Ivaany (Франция); Munay Sisters (Чили); Hemplove (ЮАР); LASSCUTOK, PAINTERS (Южная Корея).

Стартапы: Ananas Anam (Piñatex) (Великобритания); Easysize (Дания); PYRATES smart fabrics (Испания); Nofir (Норвегия); Get Outfit (Россия) и unspun (США).

 

Фото доступны по ссылке: https://yadi.sk/d/GOhLWuikU-zjrQ

Пожалуйста, оставайтесь с нами и следите за последними обновлениями на наших официальных сайтах https://globaltalents.digital/ , http://russianfashioncouncil.ru/ и в социальных сетях:

 

Национальная палата моды:

https://vk.com/russianfashioncouncil (официальная социальная сеть проекта)

https://www.instagram.com/russianfashioncouncil/

https://www.facebook.com/RFCouncil

 

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia:

https://vk.com/mbfwrussia (официальная социальная сеть проекта)

https://www.instagram.com/mbfwrussia/

https://www.facebook.com/MBFWRussia

https://t.me/mbfwrussia

https://www.tiktok.com/@mbfwrussia

https://twitter.com/MBFWR

https://www.youtube.com/user/mbfweekrussia