Месяц: Сентябрь 2020

From hot takes on the buzziest fashion shows and the latest happenings in the industry to Outfit of the Day pictures, Antoine Gregory’s Twitter account @bibbygregory has always served as a window into his mind. And at its forefront? Black designers—always.

As one of the few Black students in his design class at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Gregory has long been keenly aware of the need for more Black faces in fashion. In 2016, he created a Twitter thread titled “Black Designers You Should Know” listing the names and websites of veteran and budding Black designers, including Carly Cushnie, James Phlemuns, LaQuan Smith, Hanifa, Kerby Jean-Raymond and more. Little did he know the thread would become the cornerstone of the platform he’d launch four years later.

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Black Fashion Fair arrived this week, not a moment too soon. At a time when the heaviness of the current climate and social unrest has propelled Black designers to the forefront of fashion’s consciousness, Black Fashion Fair presents not only a mission but a plan of action to keep Black talent at the center of the conversation. The platform is “a conceptual trade, educational, and cultural experience aimed toward the discovery and furtherance of Black designers,” the site reads. The crème de la crème of BFF is its A-Z directory that organizes creatives by their real name instead of the brand.

“It is also a tool to reach the designer brands through commerce. Buying Black is easy, but we need support and community around Black designers that help sustain their businesses long-term. I want to see Black designers become heritage brands,” he told Essence.

One way Gregory hopes to keep designers in conversations is through BFF’s Fashion Stories, an ongoing series highlighting Black designers and the narratives behind their brands. “As Black Fashion Fair continues to advocate for greater access and visibility, these stories will document and preserve Black fashion and style as designers continue to gain equity in an industry that has not mirrored them. These stories are about more than fashion. These stories are a historical and cultural reference. They are the representation of a people who are often forgotten and whose contributions have largely been ignored,” BFF wrote on the site. In tandem with BFF’s debut, the platform released its inaugural Fashion Story spotlighting Pyer Moss, shot by Ahmad Barber and Donté Maurice of AB+DM.

Today, BFF launches another sector of its multi-pronged plan, a digital trade show showcasing pieces from 21 designers, from Fe Noel to Tia Adeola to Phlemuns. Each brand participating in the fair is asked to commit 15 percent of proceeds to resources that support the next generation of designers.

Shop some of our favorite picks below.

Freedom Rasta Tank Dress

Theophilio blackfashionfair.org

$195.00

ESR Mini Tote

Brandon Blackwood blackfashionfair.org

$65.00

Charcoal Floral Hoody (Exclusive)

Sheila Rashid blackfashionfair.org

$300.00

«NAOMI» Embellished Boots

Tejahn Burnett blackfashionfair.org

$249.00

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It wasn’t supposed to be this way.

In another dimension—the one where science isn’t “an opinion,” where health is a human right, where Quibi is the name of a celebrity baby instead of, like, whatever it is—Fashion Week would be moving right along. There would be triumphs and trends, breakout faces wearing sponsored mascara, and the occasional “that didn’t need to be a show” sigh from weary editors on a micro-drip of cold brew and chunky accessories. In other words, the jagged bliss of our jobs.

Jamie McCarthyGetty Images

Instead, here we are in a more twisted timeline, exclaiming “it’s so good to see you!” even though half our faces are covered. And that’s where Christian Siriano pops into view. (For real though—at the show he seemed to appear magically from behind a tree in his backyard, yelling “it’s so good to see you!” while wearing a mask—one of the 750k he’s created for frontline workers since the start of the pandemic.)

Along with helping solve this dimension’s PPE shortage and making TikTok videos with Sarah Jessica Parker, the 34-year-old designer has been doing exactly what the rest of us have: binging old movies in his PJs. “Comfort viewing is a very real thing,” he says, “and for me, that’s Don’t Tell Mom the Babysitter’s Dead.” The 1991 comedy stars Christina Applegate as a high school senior pretending to be a fashion executive. Its glorious finale has a bunch of giddy teens wearing Balmain-meets-Burger-King versions of fast food uniforms on a catwalk made from pool floats. And for many current millennials—Siriano included—“it was the first time I ever saw a runway show, or even realized that fashion could be a job.”

Jamie McCarthyGetty Images

Or in the case of Siriano’s latest collection, a great job. Along with expected (and exquisite) confections like lipstick-red poufs and pink princess skirts, there were flare-kick pants and cropped plaid blazers that could perk up a dreaded Zoom meeting pretty fast. See also: a black lace corset with a thighbone-bearing skirt for maximum Hailey Baldwin vibes (and a brief pang of party withdrawal for the Ghosts of Wang Fests Past). Of course there were Emmy Award options because the show is still happening (sort of, somehow…) on Sunday, along with bombshells like Lauren Chan and Sabrina Karlsson, who was dressed like a Connecticut Persephone in yellow chiffon and sooooo many daisies. (An ode to Drew Barrymore, who filmed a segment with Siriano for her new talk show?)

Mike CoppolaGetty Images

Then there was Coco Rocha, who closed the show in a scarlet body-con gown while pregnant with her third child. (Mazel Tov, Coco!) “It’s the only show she’ll get to do this season with the baby in her belly,” sighed Siriano. “So we wanted to make it special.” So did Rocha—she stepped into his swimming pool for the grand finale, swam the backstroke… and then had to be pulled out by the atelier assistants, because have you ever gotten a multi-layered couture gown sopping wet? Even the hardcore CrossFit attendees among us could never. And though the move was very reminiscent of Shelley Long’s pool dive in Troop Beverly Hills (another favorite of the designer), Siriano swears it wasn’t choreographed. “To be honest, we told her to be free—Coco is such a muse, and I trust her completely in my clothes—but I had no idea what she was going to do!” said the designer after the show. “It certainly wasn’t planned—but what has been this year?”

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In that other timeline, Rocha would have somehow emerged from the pool like an X-Men goddess, posed while sopping wet, and been air-lifted by a helicopter sponsored by an energy drink. In this one, Christian Siriano took his bow while laughing, surrounded by women of all body types and skin tones, as an audience of die-hard fashion folk clapped, ‘grammed, and smiled broadly, because it was a beautiful day and there were beautiful things in it—even if those things needed help to get out of a saltwater swimming pool before they could keep going.

So wait, maybe it was supposed to be this way? Anyhow, onwards.

Jamie McCarthyGetty Images

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Программа предстоящего сезона состоит из реальных показов и видеопрезентаций с элементами VR и AR, которые будут объединены в единое расписание. Показы в ЦВЗ «Манеж» начнутся 20 октября.

Чтобы поддержать московских и российских дизайнеров в условиях экономического спада из-за пандемии, Неделя моды MBFW Russia совместно с Фондом моды запускают масштабную грантовую поддержку для дизайнеров со всей России. Гранты, предоставленные Фондом моды, дадут возможность московским и российским дизайнерам сделать показ на подиуме в «Манеже» на Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia без вступительного взноса. Десятки талантливых московских и российских брендов и дизайнеров моды покажут новые коллекции на международном событии. В новом сезоне Неделя моды объединит в своем онлайн-расписании показы с разных площадок из Москвы, а также других городов России. MBFW Russia будет транслироваться на весь мир в соцсетях, на сайтах СМИ, концепт-сторов и шоурумов.

«Показы были и остаются основным инструментом коммуникации для брендов. Как показал наш опыт во время пандемии, а мы сделали три успешных международных онлайн-мероприятия, прямая трансляция реального показа дает лучший результат для дизайнера, если сравнивать с любым видеоконтентом. Посткарантинный формат phygital, когда онлайн-активность поддерживает офлайн-формат, будет реализован в «Манеже», а точкой сбора станет трансляция. В этом сезоне участники Недели моды получат больше внимания как в Москве, так и за ее пределами», — рассказал президент Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Александр Шумский.

https://youtu.be/kY26ZzgGKwc

КАК ПОЛУЧИТЬ ГРАНТ?

С 18 по 30 сентября открыт прием заявок на получение гранта на участие в Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Подать заявку могут дизайнеры и бренды, которые имеют юридическое лицо, ведут деятельность не более 7 лет и готовы представить новую коллекцию, которая ранее не демонстрировалась публично, в том числе в соцсетях. Все заявки будут рассмотрены экспертным советом, а результаты объявлены в начале октября. Решение разработано Фондом моды для поддержки перспективных дизайнеров в период пандемии. Подать заявку и получить более подробную информацию об условиях участия можно на сайте http://mbfwrussia.moscow.

ДИЗАЙНЕРЫ СО ВСЕЙ РОССИИ

Неделя моды также покажет на весь мир трансляции модных показов не только из Москвы, но и других городов России. В настоящий момент уже планируются прямые трансляции из Санкт-Петербурга и Сочи в рамках единого расписания Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.

До 30 сентября дизайнеры и бренды моды, которые планируют проведение показов не в Москве и готовы обеспечить интернет-трансляцию, могут подать заявку и получить более подробную информацию об условиях участия на сайте Национальной палаты моды. Претенденты также пройдут отбор экспертного совета в соответствии с правилами MBFW Russia. Дизайнеры-участники Недели моды из других городов будут заявлены в основном расписании Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.

БЕЗОПАСНОСТЬ

Организаторы Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia примут все необходимые меры по предотвращению распространения коронавирусной инфекции: на мероприятии будут соблюдаться рекомендации Роспотребнадзора в отношении выставочных мероприятий, которые с сентября проходят в Москве. Санитарный протокол MBFW Russia включит в себя замер температуры на входах, масочный режим, использование санитайзеров, регулярную санобработку общественных зон и пр. Зона backstage Недели моды будет реорганизована в соответствии с текущими санитарными требованиями. В новом сезоне также будет ограничено количество гостей на показах.

Справочно:

Апрельская Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia была отменена из-за коронавируса, однако Национальная палата моды провела 4–5 апреля 2020 г. виртуально сезонные показы. Виртуальная Неделя моды собрала интернет-аудиторию более 800 тысяч человек и стала одним из первых мировых событий в области моды, перешедших полностью в виртуальное пространство. Показы первой цифровой MBFW Russia освещали сотни изданий из 56 стран мира.

Пожалуйста, оставайтесь с нами и следите за последними обновлениями на наших официальных сайтах http://mbfwrussia.moscow, http://russianfashioncouncil.ru/, http://mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru/ и в социальных сетях.